*DXPEDITION REPORT* 339DA/0 Temotu

– January 21, 2025Posted in: DXpedition Reports

Tucked between PNG (101) and Vanuatu (197), in warm equatorial waters of the South Pacific, the sun-drenched shores of the Solomons is indeed unspoilt paradise; a vibrant blend of Melanesian culture wetem mix of Polynesian, Micronesian, Chinese and European influences.

A sideboard of IOTA sensualities for any ambitious DXpeditioner, The Happy Isles is home QTH to almost a thousand sand, rock and coral cays; unfrequented dxstinations famed for their pristine coral rif, luxuriant rainforests and kastom village life.

Wan of these paradisical microbes is Pigeon Island, set in the far-flung Solomon’s province of Temotu; wan not heard on the airways of Eleven since 2001.

It’s here where 43DA001 Darren (See pictured above) embarked on a 2 week long dx adventure; going to extraordinary lengths, in the waking moments of 2025, to bring this “Most Wandem” DXCC to life.

Here’s his DXpedition Report—enriched with Pijin phrases—starting with his departure from the cultural melting pot which is Honiara, capital of the Solomon Islands (135)…

DAY 1 – JAN  2

After a 3 night stay at the King Solomon Hotel, perched atop Guadalcanal Island’s (OC-047) Iron Bottom Sound, wind, rain, and a thick mantle of grey throw domestic flight plans today into chaos.

Up at 6am, I arrive at Honiara’s Henderson Field airport by taxi, 2 hrs before departure, only to learn the second leg of my flight has been delayed until WX clears.

On the brighter side, check-in is hassle free and I use the time to convert currency—hundreds of greenbacks obtained from QSL duties—to Sol cash, much to the dismay of the young cashier.

Eventually, a blessing from the meteorology Gods sanctions take-off for our Twin Otter aircraft, a couple of hours behind schedule, but better late than never right?!?!?!

When we eventually grace the crushed coral tarmac of Santa Cruz, I’m welcomed at the terminal in Lata by wontok I met in 2017; Nester (See below), a beautiful person and school teacher laek myself, and her son now 8 yrs older than when I first met hemi as a baby.

It’s fantastic to see them again!

Topped-up with Jet A-1 Kerosene, the 2 Fan Trash Can is soon back in the clouds, bound for the grass runway of Lomlom Island, 700 clicks or so to the north-east.

My first real taste of the outlying Rif Isles is from the seat of H4-OTA, after soaring across the wild jungle-clad interior of Nendo (OC-100) some 30 min before; catching glimpses of shrouded peaks on the horizon and tracing the wide swathe of aqua rif that stretched on for km beyond the window.

The site of my disastrous 2017 Temotu DXperience which netted just 100 contacts on 11m in 3 weeks, the tropical rainforest here is an impenetrable fortress of khaki, streaked with rivulets that glint laek gilded serpents, and a smattering of thatched rooves.

In 30 min, my heart is pounding as our tiny 18 seater De Havilland Canada DHC-6 aircraft glides across the grass and I’m soon sekhan with the legendary Ben Hepworth, owner of the ham friendly Ngarando Retreat where I’ve organized to stay.

A kiwi expat, and former amateur radio operator, 60-year-old Ben is a towering figure of Pacifica experience and Christian faith, wetem deep connection to the Rif Islands which dates back to the 50s’.

History has it that Ben’s parents Dianna and Tom (now both buried on the island) relocated to Pigeon in the 1950’s from England and built a life here; constructed a home, raised children, and immersed themselves in the local community.

A captivating half-hour crossing by boat to Pigeon Island with Ben and his teenage daughter Jenny makes a wide arch across a shallow passage, weaving between dense mangrove forest and tiny wooden huts, over magnificent sea grass beds of green.

Before long, deeper waters emerge ahead, wasim in the golden light of a setting sun, unveiling the shimmering turquoise hue I’d, until then, only seen from the centre fuselage of a Twin Otter aircraft.

And Google Images of course!

Now, my backside bouncing up and down on the seat of a yellow fiberglass canoe, I soak up the panoramic views of OC-065 islands, solwata teeming with schools of stripies and jungle spilling out over coastline.

Approaching the shore, knolls of crystalized coral nearby, no more than 5 m2 and iced with vegetation, are perfectly framed against a backdrop of rugged, lush green forest.

Finally, after 3 flights, 3 taxis and 1 boat ride, I’m here!

Piece by piece, luggage is unloaded from the canoe (See below left), and I’m soon being ushered into living quarters on the edge of the sea, last used for ham radio ops by members of the Intrepid-DX Group in 2023.

Double and single beds, a gas fridge and cooker, sink, shower and flush toilet, together with a table for the station and an oscillating fan, is a comfy setting for an IOTA effort of this magnitude.

After receiving a brief rundown on usage of the 8 KW generator that was left behind by the H40WA Team + other housekeeping minutiae, I set about piecing together the 4 element Moxon in kwiktaem.

It’s a race to beat the dark and have the station operational on the evening of Day 1 but the return of heavy rain, coupled with unstable footing, poor light and kamikaze mosquitoes makes installation of the mast unachievable.

As prearranged, Ben and ‘hired help’ are banging on the door at sunrise, however, to work on the antennas and support getting mifela on the air.

Clear skies are a welcome sight!

First off, 2 lengths of the highest quality 25m Messi & Paolini cable are fed through a kitchen window to a generous outdoor space behind the lodge, albeit with a twisted tiling of tree roots which circumnavigate the antenna.

About to fix the Moxon to the mast, I discover that wan of its wires has snapped overnight so, until it’s repaired, I turn to the 3-element ProSkypper as backup.

While wan of the local lads, Gerard, clambers up a nearby coconut palm with rope in teeth, I piece together the fiberglass spreaders and wire elements of the surrogate antenna; wan which worked so effectively for mifela in Tonga last year as 96DA/0.

Once this 2kg featherweight is hitched to the top section of my 10m NBS Mast, made easier by a stepladder Ben produces from his workshop, the balun of a Bush Comm SWC-100 dipole is winched to the top of the coconut palm by my young wontok.

A proven performer for 20m & 40m ham bands in particular, its arms are then tied off to vantage points by the water’s edge and further up the rise.

3 guy ropes and a crow-bar, bludgeoned into the ground with a sledge hammer, secure the mast in the event of obscene WX and when the military grade compass is placed at the base, the installation is almost complete.

Insaet, I take a moment to tidy the shack……HP ProBook open, log and azimuth up on screen, Sennheiser HD400S noise cancelling headphones at the ready.

When the Yaesu FT-950 transciever is powered up, via a 40 amp PowerTech MP3090 PS, DXiety and trepidation give way to a sudden rush of adrenalin when bubbles, squeaks and other prop phenomena inundate the room and an SWR of 1.1 is locked in.

CQs on 27.630 MHz USB produce Freebanders from Oceania (OC) and South America (SA) and it’s all systems go as 339DA/0 notifications are splashed up on the cluster DX and 11dx spot boards.

With the antenna at 140°, first in the log are fellow DA’s in the Leeward Islands (OC-067).

I’m excited when YL DXers 201DA088 Anae, 201DA282 Poerava and their ‘Elmer’ 201DA101 Chris slide into the log from their home on Bora Bora.

Incredulously, 15 of the next 17 stations worked are from the ‘Land of Parrots’ with big guns 3KPI101 Fernando, 3B3 Bila and 3DA007 Ali in the Brazilian state of  São Paulo are the strongest of signals.

The end result for just 2 hours of ops is 65 stations ITL and the DX Sabbatical is off to a terrific start!

DAY 2 – JAN 3

In the rugged Canary Islands (AF-004), imposing DX Hunter 34DA010 Saul ignites day 2 of 339DA/0 and the DX fire continues to rage for most of the day.

Sustenance is a handful of Ngali nuts and coconut collected from the space behind the shack.

205AT048 Paolo in Cape Verde, an archipelagic state of West Africa, 22DF003 Giles in French Guiana and a compendium of stations in the Caribbean Sea (11, 23 ,143, 158 & 194) are highlights of daylight hours and the perfect entrée for an evening feast of EU DX.

Calling and listening for EU on the SP, and with no immediate signs of action, I’m stunned to hear power station 35AT160 Peter of the Eastern Alps emerge on the freq just after 08:00 UTC.

“Darren, if you can hear me, the LP is open!!!”

Straight away, the Skypper’s 12.51 dBi gain is spun to 140° and I’m blown away when the band spreads its legs laek a virgin on prom night.

Astoundingly, this is the impetus for 5 hours of EU DX madness and an Everest laek pile up which nets some 500 contacts.

Amidst the krangge Europeans in this 1000-call-thick madness are SA stations from Brazil (3), Uruguay (12) and Venezuela (5) who cash in coupons on the same beam heading.

Meanwhile, ops on Great Britain Island (EU-005), in Scandinavia and major DX mini-markets Italy and France slam-dunk a NIU WAN into their log and the airway is thick with DX-citement.

Traditionally, pileups are typically a high-stress environment but, despite some co-channel interference on RX frequencies whilst working in split mode, this wan is relatively user friendly and contacts are shelled laek barrows of shrimp for a post-NY BBQ.

As the clock nears midnight, 14AT039 Jerome, 35DA035 Frank, 161EX016 Mariusz and 178AT111 Andy in the Balkans are prominent on the S-Meter.

Top-notch dxpeditioners 1DA003 Filippo and 3DA018 Renner—fresh from their stunning dxpeditions to Nicobar & Andaman (253) and Fernando de Noronha (285) respectively—are prized acquisitions to the Temotu log also.

Tongue tied, energy-sapped and heavy-lidded, I’m QRT at 1:30 am local time when the DX river runs dry and Day 2 ends with 630 stations ITL.

DAY 3 – JAN 4

Overnight news of solar storm activity pulling the rug from propagation across the bands means more time settling in and better adjusting the body clock to meet EU DX windows.

The DX work bench is on a veranda, overlooking the sea, and a cool breeze softens the syrupy humidity which sucks the sweat from my skin.

With the ICOM IC-7300 purring away in the background, locked in on the world-wide call frequency, the hammock is comfy and kaikai consisting of Punjas breakfast crackers topped with mashed banana are devoured with ferocity.

In daylight hours, flimsy props hula-hoops from region to region without any obvious consistency. As a result, it’s difficult to get a reading on where or when or who will pop-up next on the band, regardless of antenna trajectory.

Appreciatively, Hawaii (17), Hong Kong (60) and the Philippines (79) are niu DXCC worked during the day, while 172DA161 Patrice on Grand Terre Island (OC-032), 10DA010 Amilcar in Latin America and 91EK505 Aim in the Sunda Islands of western Indonesia (OC-143) achieve log entries.

At 06:50 Universal Time (UTC), a short path opp with EU, dominated by Polish guys but with a scattering of OMs from DXCC Italy (1), France (14),  Switzerland (15) and Finland (56) is music to the ears.

When CX have died down, on West Island, in the Cocos Keeling Islands (OC-003), gudfela 193AT101 Aberdeen arrives at 12:11 UTC. With no other stations on the band, we reminisce about my stay there in 2014, where I was treated to his family’s warm hospitality.

His wife’s delicious cooking…

Playing footy with his son Bidi and mates…

And a fishing trip past Direction Island on which we caught enough fish to feed a small village…

It’s a very spesol QSO indeed!

At the end of Day 3, the log reads like a world atlas with a prodigious number of DXCC already achieved. Despite the solar forecast predicting doom and gloom, it’s been another profitable day in the province with 735 stations ITL!

DAY 4 – JAN 5

I’m awake with the sun as it rises over Ngadeli—the home of Sisi dance—snuggled with the IC-7300 transciever on low volume, beneath the mosquito net which covers my bed.

The Americas is open!

Outside, overlooking the lagoon, the sounds of song birds and the exotic fragrance of red hibiscus blossoms fills the air and they’re promptly joined with 339DA/0 CQ calls on the QRG.

Let’s go!

224AT104 Ienimoa in the Gilbert Islands (OC-017) is a shock inclusion to the log. He joins wontok 43DA162 Brett on Australia’s east coast and 177EK101 Bader in Sri Lanka (AS-003) as cherished acquirements for the Reef Islands station.

Mid-morning, I take the crushed coral path to Ben’s home QTH for a bite to eat and check in via Star Link with the wife, 43DA1112 Leonie, and kids back home.

The online log is up dated, Yahoo email, WhatsApp and Facebook messages replied and a magnificent feed of bananas, juicy hunks of pawpaw and freshly squeezed lime juice treats the taste buds.

For generations, coconut trees have played a vital role in everyday life here, providing kaikai, shelter, and income for Temotuan families. In fact, every part of the tree, I’m told, is utilized; from cooking to climbing to construction.

I also see kokoroko roaming wild here, ferociously peck into coconut shells on the ground for any remaining scraps of coco-meat.

Ben and his wife Gwen aim to serve what can be caught or grown in the area, an ethos I love, meaning all dishes include locally-sourced crops, often picked or uprooted fresh from their garden, the market or nearby rif.

Umbrellaed by a mozzie net with more holes than a , I enjoy a few hours nap in the arvo to enable the body clock to better align with the EU prop window which slides open at 7 pm local time and shuts at around 2 am.

Hunting EU again from 6:30 UTC and energized by a scrumptious meal of Green PawPaw Curry and rice, I’m adrenalized to work 1DA086 Carmelo and renowned IOTA Hunter 161EX015 Jurek in Poland. These famous DX-Men headline a string of blokes worked from this part of the world which includes ops in 14, 45 and 327.

Gassed out, I’m eventually QRT as Over the Horizon Radar runs roughshod over the frequency and the Russian Woodpecker has permeated my brain.

DAY 5 – JAN 6

Sadly, there’s a DX famine brought on by solar storms that have torn the tonsils out of 11m.

Apart from some great contacts with the likes of veteran Hunter 43SD071 Graham in Oz, 5RC013 Francisco in Caracas and 347AT088 Willy on Curacao Island (SA-099), in the southern Caribbean Sea, CQ calls fall upon deaf ears.

So, with the band in slumber, I accept an invite from Ben, daughter Jenny and friend, and dog Taffy (Pictured Left), mid-morning, for an island-hop aboard his motorised yellow canoe.

Blue Linckia (starfish), sea cucumbers and gar all reside beneath the pier, and these are evident in the crystal-clear solwata as we clamber on board the vessel bound for Lomlom where my host has a rendezvous planned with the Manupo Medical clinic.

40 min later, while Ben mingles with other Temotuans by the steps of the centre, I investigate the surrounds of Lomlom’s administrative HQ…

A stainless-steel multiband dipole outside the abandoned police quarters sparks interest, as does the larger scale medical centre constructed in 2020 through Chinese Aide. Sadly, this is still not staffed and/or adequately resourced to be operational.

Once my Kiwi mate is given an all-clear from the resident nurse, we take a path through the rainforest towards his wife’s village as the heavens open and we’re lashed with H2O!

Wan hour later, monsoonal deluge still in full-swing, I’m trudging through Nyivale Village, every footstep deeper into a remote civilization seemingly trapped in time but fortunately no longer practicing cannibalism.

Or so I’m told…

Honored to be a guest, even in this ferocious WX, I’m granted a tour of Nyivale by Ben’s daughter, Jenny. She’s famous here. Daughter of the white man who took a cherished local woman as his wife; vibrant and fluent in both English and Äiwoo and she’s proud to exhibit her village, her people, her way of life to the visiting white man.

The smell of damp earth and leaves heavy, we traipse through vegetation trodden down by tethered pikpiks admiring leaf shacks which seem to have grown organically from where leaves have fallen.

Inquisitive eyes are upon mifela at every corner.

Piccaninni giggle then run, women around open fires nurturing pots smile toothy grins and men who sit together chewing betel nut with pepper stems dipped in crushed lime raise an eyebrow in salutation then keep on yarning.

On the kambaek walk, we push through jungle to a cliff overlooking the sea. Here, there’s a spectacular view of the coast below with its gorgeous white sand beach, dark shades of coral rif, and crashing surf, all beneath an impenetrable ceiling of grey which blankets the island.

Magnificent Matema Island is in the distance.

While my explorations in this far-flung place are memorable, DX wise, the day is uneventful.

Props is up and down laek a stripper’s knickers. Or so I’ve heard. And only 30 stations are added to the log.

DAY 6 – JAN 7

In the South Pacific, the coconut tree is lovingly called the “tree of life” but it’s the deafening crash of a coconut falling upon the roof of my shack at 5am which has mifela questioning if mine is coming to an end.

Darren, iufela are now awake!

Fully alert, I collapse into the solwata outside my shack and let the sea soothe mozzy bites and coral cuts on my feet before returning to chase DX a few moments later.

As per VOACAP 11 and Proppy HF Propagation predictions, Pasifika DX is romping in from the early hours and I’m ecstatic to work a long list of Pacificans on the morning greyline. Bending the needle are 43SW616 Mick, 43EK010 Peter and 43WR666 Peter from Australia’s eastern states and a group of guys from the ‘Long White Cloud’ are in there too!

After a short burst on ham bands mid-morning and a stupendous pile-up with the Americas on 10m which nets 300 contacts, I’m ripping into some south-east Asia DX on the Freeband and delighted to log 91DA007 Eko on Java Island (OC-021).

The evening’s meal consists of steamed Pombla fish, plaintain banana, boiled cabbage and rice, wasim down wetem 4% Canoe Lager beers.

For hydration purposes only.

It’s the idea fuel for working long hours of DX and I’m seizing the MH31 mic when German stations, at 7:50 UTC, are the catalyst for an orgasmic pile up of northern hemisphere DX!

The frequency is canopy thick with dx, with big gun pros juiced up on wattage and multi-element arrays strangling the air from small pistols who patiently await their shot.

Then there are those guys somewhere in between; guys whose operating skillset often compensates for any station deficiency.

Smart ops bide their time for a call. Listening intently, they study the pattern and rhythm of the DX like lions stalking prey…

Others holler mercilessly through the mic, like teeth gnashing hyena. Their philosophy is, “If Daz hears me, I’ll be logged!”

For every blind caller, every tail-gator, and every impatient chaser, there are 10’s of unbelievably disciplined guys who not only nail their contact with tumas less fuss than some, but make the process easier for mifela.

A mishmash of 230 EU contacts are logged in a mind-blowing evening of split mode DX which sees the log for 339DA/0 at 1266 at the end of Day 7.

I flop onto the bed at 1:15 am for slipslip and am snoring laek a lawnmower before I hit the pillow!

DAY 7 – JAN 8

I’m QRV at dawn and soon the freq is an Amazonian infestation of signal snapping piranha, all feeding on the greyline!

3SD102 Paolo in Brazil, 12RC116 Danilo and 61LR103 Ernesto in Ecuador are hammering 5/9 signals through the Sennheiser HD400S headphones, in a long list of guys added from this region of the globe.

Later in the morning, painted in shades of lobster red from yesterday’s exposure to the elements, I hide within shade cast from a throng of coconut palms and update the private sponsors page with prop reports, log data and pics.

The goodwill vibe is intoxicating but there’s still a tremendous amount of work to be done to meet dxpedition targets!

When the tide is in, Pigeon Island is paradise on a raised platform of crystalized coral rif.  When the tide is out, however, it’s an island in a desert of coral-strewn sand.!

After smashing out around 50 contacts in a gratifying DX breaky sesh, I’m able to wade the shallow channels of sea which remain, across to Ngandeli Island to chew betel nut with some of the locals.

Shells pop and crackle beneath my feet.

Fish dart by my knees.

Here, the natives are paralyzed by shyness.

At first.

Beneath thatched rooves, women with susu out and babies sit on leaf mats on an earth floor, carving breadfruit, while men plant areca palm seedlings in areas of bright sunlight, to ensure the next generation’s supply of betel nut.

Come 8 UTC, the QRG is an aviary of squawking Italians but amongst the hoo-ha of IOTA Chasers is 76VD013 Michel in the Arab Maghreb region of North Africa!

Tonight, the rain is a Spotify track on loop, incessant and uncompromising on the tin roof of the shack, yet calming and soothing on the soul. The language of split ops is still foreign to some guys, though, and a handful of DX rookies do their best to sabotage the tranquility…

Fortunately, the DX police are out in force, though, brandishing firearms at any would-be caller who happens to trespass onto the simplex freq. Their message is clear, obey the law or you will be shot!

DX pileups are all about patterns, rhythm and momentum — not just for the DXpeditioner but also the Hunter, provided of course he’s adhering to some basic standards around radio conduct, mostly around listening which appears in short supply on the band this evening.

The mast is surrounded by coconut trees so tall they block out the moonlight, so extra care is taken to ensure the antenna’s directing element is, in fact, pointed where it should, once darkness swallows the island.

Moonlight. Starlight. Samsung torch light. All are utilized with effect for an accurate beam heading!

Energized by Niynga nuts and stale Oreo biscuits purchased in Honiara a week before, I continue to work stations until the wee hours of the morning, while rain pounds the cookie-tin roof of the shack.

Among them are 90DA101 Kostas on the island of Crete (EU-015), 1SD010 Lukas in the Veneto region of northern Italy and highly-respected DXpeditioner 13DA012 Joe in western EU.

DAY 8 – JAN 9

Awakened at 5:30 am by stifling heat and squadrons of blood sucking mosquitos running air raids on my ankles, I switch on the rig and explore the 26-27 MHz spectrum for signs of DX.

There’s a stunning outlook across the velvety expanse of the passage to Ngadeli Island and, whilst I sit admiring the view, I’m psyched to hear Caribbean Pirates engaged in local chitchat on 27.515 MHz LSB.

Time to modulate!

Fellow DA member 158DA711 Terry in the “Land of the Hummingbird” is nailed down, while charming West Indians in Barbados (NA-021), Jamaica (NA-097) and Tobago are worked.

Later in the arvo, the sun is a stove-top gas plate scorching my skin as I meander through markets on Lomlom—largest isle of the Rif Islands IOTA Group—in search of shack snacks.

Every Thursday, hundreds of Rif Islanders—their teeth blood-orange-stained by betel nut juice—gather alongside the landing strip to sell products from their garden or goods baked fresh in Umus or open fires. As well as saying lukim iu to those who board the weekly flights to Honiara, it’s the perfect excuse to come together and socialize.

Feeling more coconutized by the min, I grab some oki nuts, a bunch of bananas and nambo then wade through shallows back to the canoe, careful not to tread on any crabs that scamper around my toes.

On the way back from Lomlom, we’re pummeled by explosions of foam and salty spray, whipped up by unrelenting torrents of kumberra and rough waters.

Grateful for dry land, I’m back at it, again, working stations such as 56LR555 Hannu in Finland and 43VCJ371 Frank in the Aussie state of Victoria but the band flatlines for the rest of the day.

While only 17 stations are added to the log on Jan 8, I’m delighted that a stakka long-time radio wontok are among them!

DAY 9 – JAN 10

DX aside, wan of the best things to do here at Ngarando Retreat is to throw back some SolBrew on the veranda overlooking the sea and watch the world go by or read a book in the hammock…

Snacking on handfuls of oki, I watch the silhouettes of birds chasing schools of sardines, scarlet-helmeted honeyeaters (Cardinal Myzomela) dart amongst hibiscus trees, local fisher-lads crisscrossing the lagoon with nets, and the ephemeral beams of yellow light shifting across tree tops which hang over the solwata.

For me, it’s a rare thing these days to simply sit and be; free from endless distractions of socials or the need to constantly be switched on and doing stuff. But out here in this remote QTH, I couldn’t have picked a better place to disconnect and DX-scape the ceaseless bustle of everyday life.

At least for a short while…

In my experience, rare DX brings out the best in some ops and the worst in others and it’s on full display here. Professional hunters use ‘Most Wandem‘ as an opportunity to sharpen their skills in a pile-up.

For these guys, it’s the ultimate test of patience, skill and strategy. They aim for success with as few calls as possible.

Others are not so disciplined. Their strategy is call, call, call.

Mid QSO – doesn’t matter. Keep calling…

Can’t hear Darren – doesn’t matter. Keep calling…

“If Darren hears me, I will be logged!”

No.

Sarrap!

Regional Pilots [1DA005 Gaetano, 2DA010 Jeff, 3DA010 Macio, 19DA104 Gene and 43DX234 Tom] filter info out to the community via their preferred forums and, after a hearty feed of curry korokoko, kumera sweet potato and steamed beets,  I’m inundated with calls from major DX markets.

From 8:30 UTC, listening up, northern hemisphere DX is punching in via the LP and 13OT033 Frank, 14DA014 Eric and 50RC100 Pavel figure in a series of stations worked from this part of the world.

Despite heavy QRM from over the horizon radar, a collection of Aussies round off the log for Day 9 which has the log at 1366 and I enjoy the final few hours destroying pile ups on other bands!

DAY 10 – JAN 11

Fueled by fire-baked bread with a thick layer of marmalade and a coupla kicks of caffeine, stations in the West Indies are again the target of a ‘Search & Pounce’ mission on 27.515 MHz LSB.

Emissions from the shores of Jamaica (23), Trinidad (158), Guadeloupe (196) and Martinique (NA-107) are noted, together with an ensemble of Americas stations—from Panama (24), Brazil (3) and Costa Rica (69)—all on the regular QRG.

In search of more adventure, however, I borrow a dugout canoe for a visit to Ngimvanga Island, just as the heavens open and I’m again hammered by an unforgiving equatorial downpour.

Indeed, Ngimvanga is an archive of ancient stories, myths and legends. Bedrizzled, I watch locals weave leaf mats, mend twine and bamboo fishing nets, strip bark from trees or simply laze around companionably chewing betel nut.

The odd pandanus and broad trunked sago palm brings the atmosphere of tropical island inside the jungle too but it’s the frangipani trees and delicate white flowers that would most impress the YL—43DA1112 Leonie—back home.

As we livim the pearly white shores of this amazing OC-065 island, a halo of warmth creeps across the palm trees reminding mifela that I am, in fact, in tropical island nirvana.

Back in the shack mid-arvo, I’m stoked to notch up new DXCC in Asiatic Russia and Taiwan (AS-020) via the SP, thanks to 302EK101 Yuri and 155DA441 Gary respectively.

The night-time DX session, too, is electric!

Through intermittent jamming on the simplex freq, 1SR234 Giuseppe, 13EK111 Tony and 91DA007 Eko in Bogor City, West Java, feature in an eternal list of IOTA Chasers logged for this ‘Most Wanted” dx adventure.

Despite a period of malicious interference from an op in 43 div, the end result for Jan 11 sees more than 60 new stations added to the log!

DAY 11 – JAN 12

Refueled, rejuvenated and revitalized after a tasty omelet made from fresh eggs collected from the forest, washed down with pineapple juice and a coupla cups of coffee, I’m QRV again at 7 am local time and working stations in the Amercias based on the advice of 10m beacons which light up the S=Meter.

The Rif Islands are wan of the last frontiers of unspoilt rif and its warm waters and the mingling of currents bring an explosion of life to this corner of the Pacific.

Fortunate then am I to be taken on a diving trip to Matema, a beautiful circular island some 30 km across the wide blue open expanse.

On the way past Malim, Manuwa and Matumbi rif, we throw out some fishing lines with squid skirts covering huge hooks and troll for pelagics along the drop-offs.

Suddenly, an angry barracuda smashes the lure and carries it 5m into the air, cartwheeling in a spectacular display of acrobatics.

Despite masses of feeding birds on baitfish being churned up by schools of Yellow-Fin Tuna, this massive predatory fish is the only wan landed before we reach the glistening sands of Matema.

After gaining permission from Nodua Village Elders, we enjoy underwater exploration, kitted out in snorkel and goggles, boasting a breathtaking rif drop-off, and a vibrant coral nursery rich in marine life.

Rusty relics of the Japanese occupation such as planes, anti-aircraft guns and tanks are littered across the Solomons but its stories of a submarine wreck in the waters off Matema that are most intriguing here.

While I float above flowering corals and spectacularly coloured fish such as golden damsels, orange-fin anemones and oblique-lined dottybacks, always one eye out for signs of the wreck, Ben hovers menacingly with a homebrew spear gun in hand, diving deep to harpoon what I hope to be tonight’s meal…

He doesn’t disappoint either with a mega-sized Maori Wrasse!

While Ben unloads his catch, I take a moment to sponge up the space around me, as richly diverse as it is beautiful…

In parts, crystalized coral laek the cratered surface of the moon, juts out over the sea, creating shadowy caves beneath where villagers make secret hideaways to escape the scorching sun. In others, towering coconut palms are the perfect backdrop to glistening white beach where dug outs lie at the ready for island fisherman.

As with all Pacific DX-stinations, sitting by the sea in silence is an almost meditative experience; the beauty compelling.

This evening, I feast on cuda fish, marinated in soy sauce, and roughly burned over a coconut husk fire.  And for dessert, thanks to my wontok Nesta in Lata, a block of South Pacific Cacao—magnificent dark chocolate made from cacao beans grown only in Temotu.

While my guts is bloated after a yummy feed, the appetite for this ‘Most Wandem’ DXCC is insatiable, and I’m TikTokking to an imaginary audience at 9:00 UTC when the band opens to EU and a further 80 stations are added to the log!

Among the highlights are 16DA011 Geoff in the Kingdom of Belgium, 14AT149 Yannick in the Loiret department of north-central France and 68DT044 Phil in Northern Ireland.

Satisfyingly, day 11 concludes with more than 1500 ITL.

DAY 12 – JAN 13

In the early hours, 43 Division is rampant and an incredible opening to all Australian states and territories is achieved which pulls in more than 40 straight stations!

Champion DXer 43DA123 Brian in Victoria, 43WR026 Ray on Tasmania Island (OC-066) and 43ST108 Danny in Sydney are among a series of S-9 signals which echo through the open glass shades of the shack and all the way across the passage to Ngandeli.

Outside of OC CX to the west, the band today is as uneventful as sex after marriage, or so I’ve heard from mates; so it’s back to Nyivale Village to explore some jungle trails for a few hours.

On Lomlom, the rainforest is so unmistakably alive, even in its quietude. I’ve read that Temotu and other provinces of this phantastic DXCC boast over 300 species of bird, with a stakka rare and unusual endemics, so I’m paying particular attention today to feathered friends…

In this instant, my trek through forest bares a heady array of rails, warblers, flycatchers, fantails, myzomelas, monarchs, starlings, white-eyes and flowerpeckers but I’m soon back at the settlement sitting with Gwen’s family when the rain intensifies and navigating paths becomes too traumatic.

In between showers, we eat lunch—roasted taro, cabbage and wild boar—on a cloud of banana leaves. Nearby, women grate coconuts to make cream for fish which cooks in an underground oven nearby and pikaninnis kick an old soccer ball around in puddles.

It’s an honor to witness an ancient culture at work and a life lived where wilderness meets sea!

Tonight, hunting EU DX via the LP, the Backstreet Boys track “hit me baby, one more time” might as well be the theme song for some OM who can’t help but grace the log with 2nd, 3rd or 4th callsigns.

When LP DX fades, I swing the string towards Asia and Middle East and am amped to log 116AT136 Trunc in Turkey, 94SW101 Abdullah in the UAE and 102KA002 Ali in the Persian Gulf.

Gratifyingly, more than 60 new stations are added to the log today!

DAY 13 – JAN 14

Clocking on to island time means a couple of weeks slowing down; waking without an alarm to a warm salty breeze and the distant crash of waves filtering through the open glass louvres.

Far out on the rif at low tide, curlew laek birds dine delicately, and a solitary black heron and a white chain of breakers is a scrawled flourish on a cobalt blue bank.

Rumors of a cancelled flight from Lomlom to Honiara this morning due to problems with the Dash 8 has mifela scrambling for an update with Sol Air and a niu flight time.

Email RX.

Now Jan 16.

2 more nights on the island.

Hell yes!!!!!

As if news of my extended stay in the Rif Isles hasn’t yet filtered through to the prop gods, the band has been demobilized and 27 MHz contacts this morning are few and far between.

Munching on nambo, in the hammock outside my shack, I’m grateful when Ben invites me on a boat ride to Ngimvanga Island. There, he hopes to collect some baskets of fruit and veges from the market.

“Darren, they also sell beer!”

Skirting the edge of settlements, we trek deep into the jungle towards our DXstination. Here, trees appear so heavy with gargantuan bunches of bananas it’s a wonder they’re able to stay upright!

In Pijin, I learn about the medicinal properties of native vegetation from a villager who stops to chat as we cross paths with him on a rainforest trail.

I’m fascinated when melodious sounds echo through the forest and am eager to find the culprit. We stumble across a gang of boys playing a traditional bamboo instrument. Slapping a series of bamboo pies of varying lengths, with rubber thongs, these kids make such an incredibly captivating and lively sound that has me literally dancing in the street!

My guide, Ben, reveals their music is deeply intertwined with traditional dance, culture and Reef Islands history, music which is played at Village revelries across the province.

We come to a store and I’m jubilant that a carton of SolBrew 330 ml throwdowns is a mere $120 AUD a carton.

Splashed with salt crystals, and scratching at mosquito bites, it’s not long before I’m back in the shack, mic to lips, calling on 27.555 MHz USB for stations in the South China Sea and beyond.

Tonight, the sky is a canvas of black and grey pastels, lit up by lunar magic and an artistry of constellations, unlike anything I’ve seen back in Oz.

Seascatter phenomena is again present and modulation bounces across the surface of Kokonut Pasifika like flying fish.

In collaboration with the Yaesu FT-950’s elite DSP filtering, the Skypper’s ears are perfectly attuned to the incoming flutter of phonetics and digits from faraway lands.

Right at the bottom of the noise floor, 109SR101 Simon, 1LR081 Roberto, 14SA051 Florent and a host of others across Europa engrave their callsigns into the log for Day 13 of 339DA/0 in what’s a fitting end to a remarkable 24 hours of dx adventure!

DAY 14 – JAN 15

As dawn breaks, sprinkles of gold sit like a halo above Ngadeli Island on the eastern horizon and the ocean is an opal of pale pink, vibrant blues and greens.

It’s time to boil the kettle for wan coffee.

VOACAP 11 and Proppy HF Propagation predictions are on the money with sublime skip noted with the Americas and OC right across 27 MHz.

It’s a massive thrill to bro-fist DA-RC sister station 249DA/0 in the remote Northern Cooks. On Tauhunu Islet (OC-014), DXpedition Ambassador 41DA981 Giovanni is less than 24 hrs into his activity and already dishing out hundreds of ATNO presents like Santa at Xmas!

43UNIFORM45 Grant in Western Australia, 10RC100 Lino and 201DA155 Jean-Yves on the French Polynesian island of Tahiti also grace the log but I’m most startled to be joined in the shack by a wild kokoroko who waltzes in through the open door to have a peck around.

Descendants of the red jungle fowl, the wild kokoroko found in the Rif Islands, and in abundance here on Pigeon, I’m told, are believed to have been left by Spanish Navigator Alvaro de Mendana who tried to establish a Spanish village on Nendo Island.

As the sun sets, and the anticipated greyline prop kicks in, I’m mesmerized by the Solomon sea’s DXquisite sapphire hues, yet try as I might, it’s impossible to capture the beauty on a lousy Samsung phone.

My last night on this rice grain of paradise, I’m treated to a magnificent feast thanks to Ben and his wife. At hand are baskets of baked kumera, leaf platters parading fish of numerous kinds, including the barracuda I hooked today, silver pots selling mouthwatering aromas of kokoroko and steaming pikpik flesh piled high on seaweed-dark trimmings of wild cabbage. All delivered to the shack!

Delicate flavours burst inside my maos with each bite and I’m knocking back 5% SolBrew cans to ensure the throat is well lubricated for DX which continues to permeate the shack.

The Thai hooker philosophy “Always open for business” applies to all of my dxpedition work and 1 of the rigs is always left ON when I’m present in the shack, regardless of the hour.

A late night re-opening of the band doesn’t eventuate, however, and the station is closed permanently at 20:00 UTC!

The mast is lowered, antennas are disassembled and rigs and other electrics are bubble-wrapped and stored in the suitcase.

In just under a couple of hours, de-installation is complete and I spend the remaining few min lying on a hammock feeling the breeze brush over my face and lessening the 2 week long DX psychosis, before boarding the canoe for Lomlom.

Lukim iu Temotu, and taggio tumas for the adventure!!!!!!!!

SUMMARY

Congratulations to everyone who made the log for 339DA/0!

Reconnaissance and Logistics efforts for this “Most Wandem” DXpedition were substantial.

Taggio tumas to the DA-RC HQ Team—2DA120 Tom, 3DA001 Tulio and 14DA001 Stef—for their vision and support in helping me realise this activity.

It’s the contribution of Sponsors, however, where my gratitude is most directed. Guys, your combined financial backing made this impossible project possible. Without it, 339DA/0 doesn’t eventuate, and I taggio tumas from the bottom of my heart for your comradery and backing over the course of this 3 week long dx adventure.

Please see a summary of QSO Data below…

73 de Daz, 43DA001

GLOSSARY:

  • Äiwoo – A Melanesian languis spoken in the Reef Islands
  • Areca palm = Tree that grows betel nuts
  • Gudfela = Good fellow
  • Happy Isles = Solomon Islands nickname
  • Hemi = Him
  • Iufela = you
  • Krangge = Crazy
  • Kwiktaem = Quickly
  • Laek = Like
  • Lukim iu – Goodbye
  • Maos = Mouth
  • Mifela = Me
  • Niu = New
  • Piccaninni = Children
  • Rif = Reef
  • Sarrap = Shut up!
  • Sekhan = Shake hands
  • Slipslip = Sleep
  • Solwata = Salt water
  • Spesol = Special
  • Stakka  = Many
  • Susu = Boobs
  • Taggio tumas = Thank you very much
  • Umu = Underground oven
  • Wan = One
  • Wandem = Wanted
  • Wasim = Washed
  • Wontok = Friend/s

Food

  • Betel Nut = Fruit of the areca palm used as a drug to stimulate the senses
  • Canoe Lager = Beer
  • Kaikai = Food
  • Kokoroko = Chicken
  • Kumberra = Roasted banana
  • Nambo = Roasted breadfruit chips
  • Ngali = A type of nut
  • Niynga = A type of nut
  • Oki = A type of nut
  • Pikpik = Pig/s
  • Plantain = Cooked banana
  • SolBrew =  Beer

QSO DATA

* Stations Worked: 1610
* DXCC Worked: 89 [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 50, 54, 56, 60, 61, 67, 68, 69, 73,  76, 79, 90, 91, 93, 94, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 109, 116, 122,136, 143, 153, 155,158, 161, 163165, 172, 173, 177, 178, 193, 194, 196, 201, 205, 218, 224, 233, 249, 302, 310,  327,  328, 329, 347 & 350]
* DXpedition Pilots: 1DA005 Gaetano, 2DA010 Jeff, 3DA010 Macio, 19DA104 Gene & 43DX234 Tom
* Sponsors: 204 [1AT027 Giancarlo, 1AT057 Daniele, 1AT90 Ivan, 1AT96 Paolo, 1AT136 Pietro, 1AT152 Francesco, 1AT194 Marco, 1AT247 Davide, 1AT311 Enrico, 1AT485 Riccardo, 1AT506 Piero, 1AT519 Giuseppe, 1AT746 Alex, 1AT761 Claudio, 1AT785 Stefano, 1AT932 Antonio, 1AT1074 Simone, 1DA003 Filippo, 1DA004 Max, 1DA005 Gaetano, 1DA007 Darek, 1DA086 Carmelo, 1EK156 Mauro, 1SD001 Marco, 1SD004 Paride, 1SD010 Lukas, 1SD013 Andrea, 1SD014 Fabio, 1SR231 Giuseppe, 1SR258 Daniele, 1SD290 Simone, 1ST001 Massimo, 2AT019 Emilse, 2AT081 Aaron, 2AT111 Alvin, 2AT715 Paulie, 2DA120 Tom, 2RC303 Mike, 3DA001 Tulio, 3DA002 Roger, 9AT119 Alex, 10AT258 Hugo, 10RM555 Edgar, 10SD106 Amilcar, 13AT012 Marco, 13AT015 Joe, 13AT016 Mike, 13AT031 Martin, 13AT118 Thomas, 13AT175 Adi, 13AT242 Oliver, 13AT251 Frank, 13AT398 Hans, 13AT555 Marcus, 13AT715 Pete, 13IR100 Stefan, 13LR010 Erich, 13LR021 Rainer, 13LR200 Mike, 13LR225 Jürgen, 13OP020 Martin, 13OT001 Mario, 13OT2012 Mia, 13OT033 Frank, 13RF029 Stephan, 14AT023 Jean-Marc, 14AT033 Ronan, 14AT038 Bruno, 14AT039 Jerome, 14AT047 Yoann, 14AT061 Leo, 14AT072 Norbert, 14AT090 Marcel, 14AT115 Jeff, 14AT119 Guy, 14AT149 Yannick, 14AT154 Daniel, 14AT160 Alain, 14AT193 Philippe, 14AT201 Farid, 14AT203 Xavier, 14AT206 Fabrice, 14AT224 David, 14AT228 Nick, 14AT230 Yaël, 14AT269 Franck, 14AT461 Ludo, 14AT936 Jerome, 14AT941 Eric, 14DA001 Stef, 14DA011 Cédric, 14DA014 Eric, 14DA017 Pat, 14DA021 Phil, 14DA027 Thierry, 14DA049 Fred, 14DA064 Bruno, 14DA076 Seb, 14DA181 Marc, 14DA496 Rino, 14DX019 Chris, 14EK099 Jean-Michel, 14HF077 Fab, 14IR210 Mika, 14LR054 Gérald, 14RC066 Rossend, 14RC199 Valentin, 14RS051 Chris, 14SD213 Mario, 14YM24 Yanis, 16AT747 Marco, 16DA011 Geoff, 19AT103 René, 19AT106 Marco, 19AT112 Rob, 19AT142 Dervin, 19AT256 Twan, 19DA104 Gene, 19SD188 Andy, 20SD847 Sverre, 26AT023 Ian, 26AT028 Sean, 26AT027 Paddy, 26AT043 Nick, 26AT093 Angelo, 26AT095 David, 26AT483 Mike, 26AT715 Trevor, 26DA010 Scott, 26DA117 Geoff, 26DA283 Jason, 26DX047 Darran, 26EK023 Damian, 26MP1305 Mark, 26SD176 Julian, 26SR102 Rob, 26TE011 Alan, 29AT038 Tim, 29AT104 Joe, 30AT766 Jose, 30DA010 Sergio, 30DA011 Luis, 30DA027 José María , 30RC555 Antonio, 30SD992 Pedro, 31AT347 Nuno, 31LR001 Rui, 32DA010 Filipe, 34DA010 Saul, 35RC001 Hannes, 35SR159 Chris, 35SSB079 Björn, 35DA035 Frank, 41DA981 Giovanni, 43DA050 Geoff, 43DA162 Brett, 43DA1112 Leonie, 43DX234 Tom, 47AT818 Johnny, 47DX011 Finn, 47DX054 Leif, 47DX109 Jesper, 47DX101 John, 47DK034 Jens, 47DK137 Karsten, 47IR042 Ken, 47PL122 Arne, 56AT016 Jarkko, 56AT108 Juha, 56AT137 Peter, 56LR001 Mike, 56LR007 Pasi, 56LR555 Hannu, 56SD001 Antti, 56SD106 Ville, 68AT011 John, 68AT107 Derek, 68AT121 Robert, 68AT143 Daniel, 68SD145 Chris, 68AT167 Keith, 68DT044 Phil, 90DA101 Kostas, 109SR101 Simon, 153AT102 Fred, 161AT070 Tom, 161AT080 Jarek, 161AT170 Bob, 161AT504 Martin, 161DA015 Janusz, 161DA135 Sylwester, 161DX018 Slawek, 161EX015 Jurek, 161EX016 Mariusz, 161SD002 Tom, 161SD102 Darek, 161SD105 Arek, 163AT136 Steve, 165AT017 Mario, 165AT131 Riccardo, 165DA101 Alessandro, 172DA161 Patrice, 178AT111 Andy & 327AT011 Martin]